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013 964 890 



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PREFACE. 





FTER years of practice in dress-making in two of the largest cities in 
the East, and testing the several different systems for dress-cutting, I 
^W? found the most practical method to be one in which the square and 
graduated scales are used. The square is to the cutter what the clay 
is to the potter. The square is the clay upon which many shapes are to be 
constructed. These graduated scales I have arranged in so simple a form that 
they can be readily understood and used by any artistic dress-maker and 
drapist in the country. I have spent several years in working out the problem, 
and have practically completed it, and every one using this system will readily 
appreciate its many advantages as well as its accuracy. 

Nothing is of any more importance to a dress-maker than that she be able 
to combine expediency and accuracy in fitting; and the present complicated 
styles make this more difficult and at the same time more important than ever 
before. The system that insures a perfect fit is invariably the one that will 
insure success, as no amount of ornamentation will hide imperfections; and 
a perfect fit can never be made unless the garment can be made to fit without 
alteration, for the moment alterations are made, the balance is destroyed ; and 
all good cutters know that any mistake can not be satisfactorily rectified. 

By the term "making," when used in reference to putting the parts of a 
garment together, there is much more expressed than is generally understood. 
The making of a garment properly consists far more in giving correct shape, 
than in the neatness of the manner in which the sewing may be done. 

The claims of the Tailor System are accuracy and expediency. It is based 
upon mathematical principles which secure an accurate fit at every point with 
the utmost certainty ; and combining, as it does, simplicity with perfection, it 
cannot fail to meet a long-felt want. 

It is superior to a chart in many respects, as a graduated chart is little more 
than a pattern which can only be used for garments of the same size, and no 
two persons of the same chest measurement are of the same shape. By this sys- 
tem, irregular forms can be fitted with as much certainty as those of persons of 



— 4 — 

more perfect proportions. This can hardly be done by any other method of 
cutting. This system saves labor because it saves time, and it saves money be- 
cause it saves time and labor, and hence it makes money by saving it. 

It can be used at all times, irrespective of any changes of fashion. An 
inventor, in bringing a new mechanical method before the public, is not un- 
aware that many difficulties will arise, but my constant view has been to obvi- 
ate all difficulties that would in any way embarrass or perplex. 

I will not ask any one to lay aside their mode of cutting and adopt my 
system, unless they are fully satisfied that they will be greatly benefited by the 
change. 

The only patent granted on the geometrical principle of ladies' garment- 
cutting was granted to myself, and I hold the principle under a patent. The 
Letters patent are hanging in my office, with the seal of the Patent Office of 
the United States affixed. The public can examine for themselves. 

I feel under obligations to answer any questions that may arise in the 
minds of my readers and patrons, and any one who has any remarks to make, 
or any exceptions to my policy, let them not be backward in being heard. 

I do most respectfully subscribe myself, 

Yours, etc., 

MRS. F. J. KELLOGG. 



REATfSE ON 




< ^§1}^ ) ERHAPS there is not one cutter in one thousand who can define the true 
meaning of a fitting garment. The meaning of fit is the fitting of one 
surface to another — the fitting of the surface of the dress to the surface 
of the body. If one surface lies equally smooth on the other it is a fit. 
If the garment is small and lies close but smooth to the body, it is not a misfit. 
If it be large but smooth, it is not a misfit. Should the line from B to E be 
too low, dropping the top of back center too low, it is not a misfit, but too 
short in the back. Likewise, if the sleeve is too short at the hand, it is too 
short, but not a misfit. Should the waist be too tight, or too loose, it is not 
a misfit. But if any part of the surface of the waist does not lie smooth on the 
body, but lies in wrinkles caused by the surface being twisted, in putting the 
parts together, that is a misfit. Many cutters are so completely confounded in 
regard to the true meaning of measures, that I have known them to complain of 
some system or other, and say it cut too small a waist, or too large, seemingly 
not aware that the system had nothing to do with the size of the garment, or 
without thinking that no two ladies scarcely measure alike or take the circum- 
ference the same, which governs the size of the garment. For instance, one 
cutter will take the circumference of the breast of a customer 36 inches, and 
another will take the same lady's measure 34 inches, and both cutters design to 
cut the same sized waist, something they could not do using the same draft. 
One of the first things for a cutter to learn in drafting by a new system, is to 
find how tight or loose a measure is required. 

There has been but little distinction ever made between the cutter and the 
seamstress. They are all known under the head of cutters, and it has been 
breathed into them like the breath of life that they can all cut, and they do not 
realize the fact that cutting is a profession involving the very highest branches 
of art, the improvement and advancement of which will never cease ; but all 
problems based on correct principles are susceptible of elucidation by reason- 
ing from cause to effect. 



-** Directions for Measurement. 3 M- 



i. Bust Measure. — Place the end of the tape measure in the center of 
the back, and take the measurement over the largest part of the bust and over 
the shoulder-blades. Take a close measurement, but not tight. 

2. Waist Measure. — Take a tight measurement around the smallest 
part of the waist. 

3. Length of Back. — Take measurement of length of back from promi- 
nent bone in back of neck to bottom of waist. 

4. Under Arm Measure. — Place end of tape close under arm and carry- 
to bottom of waist. ( Great care must be used in taking this measurement, for 
if taken too long, it will bring the darts up too high, causing the dress to wrinkle 
under the arm; if taken too short, it will throw the darts too low, and cause too 
low an arms eye?) 

5. Chest Measure. — Measure from arm-pit to arm-pit above the bust. 

6. Width of Back. — Measure from arm-pit to arm-pit over the shoulder- 
blades. 

7. Length of Shoulder. — Measure from neck to length of shoulder 
required. 

8. Sleeve Measurement. — Select bust measure on sleeve rule, say 36. 

It is needless to add that these measures should be taken and applied with 
the greatest care, in order that a perfect fit may be insured. * Good cutters 
know that only correct measurements can be relied upon to insure success in 
fitting, and to do this a narrow inch tape may be used. If measures are cor- 
rectly taken, using our graduated scales, a failure can hardly be made. 




Diagram A. 



N. B. — Pupils should bear in mind that in. stands for 
inches, and sc.for scales. 




♦ff 



METHOD 




BY WHICH TO TAKE AND APPLY THE MEASURES IN 
USING MRS. F. J. KELLOGG' S TAILOR SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM A. — To Cut a Basque, Princess, or Polonaise. 

Place short arm of square one inch from top of paper and long arm two 
inches from front side and draw line A, length of waist required say 16 inches, 
then draw line B, length of short arm; place long arm of square on line B, 
bringing short arm of square to line A ; draw line B half the width of bust 
measure, 18; now dot on line B half the width of 18, 9. Now, draw line C, 
by placing short arm of square on line B, bringing corner of square at 18 inch 
dot, and draw line C, length of waist, 16 inches 18 inch dot, dot ^ inches 
on line C. Then place short arm of square on line C, bringing corner of 
square to dot sixteen, and carry long arm of square to 16 dot on line A, and 
draw line D. Now measure from line D on line C, length of under arm, 8 
inches. Select scale from bust measure (36). (Pupils should always re- 
member the scales are graduated dozvnward commencing at Bust measure.) 
Place top of scale at 8 on line C, carry lower end of scale straight to- 
ward upper line, then dot on scale 1 and 8. Now place top of scale at dot 
18 on line B and dot 3. Place top of scale at corner of line A and B on 
line B and dot at 4 on line B. Next bring scale down on line A and dot 5. 
Place top of scale at dot 9 on line B, carrying bottom of scale straight to- 
ward line D, and dot 1. Now take square, place short arm on line C, cor- 
ner at 8, and draw line E ; then at dot 1 on line C, and draw line F ; then at 
dot 8 on line C and draw line G. Dot on line F from line C, half the 
width of back measure, 6}( inches, and on line G half the width of back. 
Take dart rule, placing S at 3 on line B, and bring it to dot 6, and draw 
length of shoulder, then dot at 2)4 inches. Take square (using curve in 
corner) place at dots 5 and 4 on lines A and B, and draw shape of neck ; then 
dot half of chest measure 6^ on line F from line A, place S on dart rule at 



— 9 — 

dot 5, line B, and carry to Dot i and draw length, of shoulder 6 inches; 
place curve on square at chest measure, dot 6}4, and carry square up to length 
of shoulder, and draw arm scye. Place same curve of square on shoulder, 
dot 6*/, line F, and carry arm of square to length of shoulder and draw back 
arm scye. Then place scale on line D, from line A, and dot at 2, 6, 7 and 9 ; 
draw a straight line from the center of 2 and 6 to line E, and from the center 
of 7 and 9 to line E ; now place scale on first dart line just drawn and dot at 5 
from line E and from second dart line and dot at 4. Now place D on dart rule 
at 5 and 2, and draw dart line from 5 to 6, 4 to 7 and 4 to 9 to draw the dart 
lines. From corner of D and A mark y inch ; now place B on dart rule at y 
inch, dot, and bring rule to dot 5 on line A, and draw a line down to bottom 
of rule. Then dot y of an inch on line D from line C ; then draw a straight 
line from y inch dot to dot 8 on line G; dot \)/o, inch on line D from y 
inch dot ; now draw a straight line from iy inch dot on line D to 2^ inch 
dot on shoulder line. Now take tape measure and place on line D at ^ 
inch dot and carry to dot 2 on line D. This gives you iy inches. Then 
place the 1^ inch at dot 6, and carry to dot 7. This gives you 2^ inches. 
Then carry the 2^ inch dot to 1^ inch dot on line D from line C, and carry 
to dot y inch on line D toward line C. This gives you 4 inches. Then place 
the 4 inches at dot 9 on line D from line A and carry tape measure straight 
across on line D to line C; then dot at half width of waist measure, 12^ ; then 
from the 12^ dot to dot 1^ you have \ x / 2 inches. Now dot in center of the 
1% inches, which will make you y of an inch; then draw a straight line from 
the y inch dot to line E and so it will intersect shoulder line at line E. 

Now dot from line just drawn, on line D, 2 inches, and draw line from 
2 inch dot on line D to dot 6y on line F. Now there remain y inch from 
the 12^. Take y of the y inch, or ^i, and place at dot 2 on line D and 
draw line from 3/% • dot to line E to intersect last line drawn. Take inch 
measure and measure from dot 9 on line D to dot $/% inch ; this gives you 7 
inches; mark from dot 9 one half of 7, or $% inches. Dot on each side 
of 7,y inch dot, T 3 g- inch and draw straight line from 3^ inch dot to line 
E, and place curved side of dart rule at the T 3 F dot and bring to straight 
line on E and draw a curve line. Draw curve lines on lines just drawn 
from line D to line E. To finish lower part of basque, draw a straight line 
from center of each dart down 7 and 10 inches, then draw line H from 
dot 7, and draw line I from dot 10, measure from y inch dot on line D to 
dot 2 and from 6 to 7 and 9 to y 3 F inch dot ; this makes 5^ inches ; take 
twice the amount of 5^$ inches, this gives you 11^ inches. Dot on line H 
from y inch line, n^ inches; place D on dart rule at y\ inch dot, and bring 
to 1 1 24 i ncn dot on line H, and draw hip line. Draw straight line from the 
center of 7 and -^ on line D to line H. Place 3^ inches on each side of 
straight line on line H, then take dart rule and draw hip line from 7 on line 
D to $y on line H. From ^ on line D to 3^ on H, draw straight line from 



— 10 — 

center of 2 inch dot and ^ inch dot on line D to line H, place 2 inches on 
each side of straight line on line H and draw from 2 inch dot on line D to 2 
inch dot on line H. From ^ inch dot on line D to 2 inch dot on line H, 
draw straight [line from center of 1^ inch dot to ^ inch dot on line D to 
line H. Place 1^ inch on each side of straight line on line H, draw straight 
line from 1^ inch on line Dto 1^ inch dot on line H, and from ^ inch dot 
on line Dto 1^ inch dot on line H. Where you find a lady's shoulder very 
flat at back arm-scye, it is a good plan to take a gore from ^ to ^ inch from 
line E to line F. See Diagram A. 

To Cut Polonaise. 

Make same measurements as for basque ; and also the length down the front 
and from under the arm down the side and also length of back. Make the 
draft same as a basque ; if a lining is to be used, baste it neatly on the outside. 
Then cut the skirt by the measure ; if drapery is wished allow for it in pleats 
and lay them before cutting. The prevailing styles will determine the shape of 
the bottom and also of the back. Drape according to taste. 

To Baste a Waist. 

When cutting a lining, allow the seam on the shoulder, under the arms and 
in the darts. Be sure and cut out the darts. The darts being cut out enables 
one to baste smoothly. It is well to put a band one or one and a half inches 
wide around the waist, fastened to the center seam, to sew hooks and eyes on 
and to save strain on button-holes. Using tracing wheel on the lining, allow- 
ing ^ inch on French front line when cutting out. Place the French front of 
lining on the dress goods 1^ inch from selvage, baste it down smoothly, then 
turn the i]4, inch allowed over the button-hole side of the lining. For the 
lap or button side, allow i*^ inch on dress goods, and turn under the ^ inch 
allowed on lining, and stitch. 

To Cut a Princess. 

Cut as for polonaise, cut the lining for the back as for polonaise or morn- 
ing wrapper, as preferred, and if drapery is used put extra width on the back 
over the skirt lining and drape according to style. 

To Cut a Cloak. 

Allow a hem straight down the front unless for a very full bust; then cut a 
round front. Draft as for a basque, using bust measure one size larger. Cut 
length of back and front required. If double breasted allow width on front, 
always using the under arm dart as for basque. 

To Cut an Ulster. 

Cut as for a cloak, giving proper length. If more fullness is wished allow 
on back seams. 



— 11 — 

To Cut Wrappers. 

Cut as for princess dress, using but one dart and under arm dart. 

To Cut Night Robe. 

Cut as for sacque cloak, giving French back. 

For Drafting Children's Clothes. 

For small children's clothes use no darts, but in place of front dart cut a 
seam from center of first dart to center of shoulder line, and down the front 
to bottom of skirt, giving the gabrielle; in this way you save all trouble in 
fitting small children. As there is little or no difference between the chest 
and waist measurement of children, always dot out the darts on the pattern so 
as to measure the distance, to take out the fullness on back seams. When the 
dress is open in the back for a small child, cut the lining double in front,. but 
for an adult cut the French front and sew together, and press open the seams. 
Baste the dress goods on the lining. On the back seam allow one-fourth inch, 
and finish as if opened in front. 

To Cut a Sleeve. 

Select bust measure, say 36, and dot in each bust measure 36. Bring in- 
side of Sleeve Rule to first two dots; then draw line along the margin of rule 
from dot to dot. Bring outside of Sleeve Rule to elbow outside dot, and to 
upper dot, and draw a line from dot to dot. Bring lower part of sleeve to 
outside dot, drawing line from center to lower dot. Draw third line in same 
manner. Shape upper part of sleeve with Sleeve Rule, and shape bottom of 
sleeve with Sleeve Rule. 

PRICE LIST. 

System Complete, with Instructions, : : : : $10.00 

System Complete, without Instructions, : : : 5.00 

Square, extra, : : : : : : : : 2.00 

Graduated Scales, extra, : : : : : : 1.50 

Graduated Sleeve Rule, : : : : : : 1.00 

Instruction Book, ::::::: .50 

Double Adjustable Tracing and Cutting Wheel, fine steel, 1.00 

Double Adjustable Tracing Wheel, fine steel, : : .75 

Single Tracing Wheel, fine steel, : : : : : .50 

My Double Adjustable Tracing and Cutting Wheel is one of the most 
useful inventions of the age, owing to the fact, that, in cutting out a lining, 
when you are tracing the line for basting, you cut the seam at the same time, 
thus making all seams of the same width; and it is so adjusted that you can 
make any width of seam. I am in daily receipt of hundreds of testimonials 
recommending it. All dress-makers and pattern-cutters should have one, as 
the price is within reach of all. 



Ladies or gentlemen can have employment at home or a chance to travel 
and introduce the Tailor System either on salary or commission. 

This system is the only True Tailor System in use or that has ever been 
patented, using, as it does, a plain tailor square and true geometrical scales, and 
is so simplified a child can understand it. By this system you can learn to cut 
any garment designed in our fashion journals. Persons with a small capital can 
find steady and profitable employment, and be assigned to exclusive territory. 
In writing for territory please enclose 3 ct. postage stamp for reply. 

Systems will be sent by mail to any part of the United States or Canada, 
post-paid, on receipt of price. Square must be sent by Express. Remittances 
should be made by Draft, Post-Office Money Order, or Registered letter. In 
ordering, be sure to give the name of the State in which you reside, name of 
town or Post-Office, and your own name in full and plainly written. 

Address, 

MRS. F. J. KELLOGG, 

BOX 400. FLINT, MICHIGAN. 



t 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Vopcraft & Cp,, 216 £3 Barclay. St.Wry 



0013 



Hollinge 
pHI 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 964 890 



Hollinger Corp. 
pH 8.5 



